Such descriptions would be my personal perceptions of the wines concerned.
To you, the meadow flowers may be more like green peppers or blackcurrant might replace the coconut.
Everyone, contends sensory science expert Tim Hanni, experiences individual scents and tastes – and they can be startlingly different.
Hanni’s research-based arguments rethinking conventional wisdom are often provocative, to the extent that some have argued he should be stripped of his coveted Master of Wine qualification (he was one of the first two Americans to gain it, back in 1990).
But to me he talks a lot of sense.
The point of writing this, however, is not to become mired in controversy.
It’s simply to celebrate individuality, whether in drinkers’ tastes or the offerings of those who sell them wine.
So let The Bunch take centre stage.
It’s a grouping of six independent merchants, together promoting a consumer-protective code of conduct.
Crucially important is the quality and variety of the bottles they sell.
Each merchant put forward 10 wines at their annual press tasting last month, and I admired them all.
Not that I’d choose to buy every one – that goes back to my own perception and preferences.
The group message is “wines less ordinary”, and those I tasted were distinctive, even though many came from familiar European locations and well-known appellations.
But there’s a world of difference, for example, between a vin de pays from a small, committed grower and one sourced by a cost-is-everything supermarket.
Such special wines won’t necessarily empty your wallet.
More than a third of the 60 shown left change from £20, and quality levels all through gave real value for money.
Here are my favourites.
All Bunch members deliver quickly (do check charges), several have London shops, and watch out for generous case discounts.
From Tanners (tanners-wines.co.uk): dark, serious and delicious grenache-based Famille Gonnet Le Vin de Léonard 2023, Ventoux (£14.60); super value marsanne/viognier blend La Cabane Reserve (2024 £10.90) a product of the impressive LGI co-operative close to Carcassonne; wonderfully classic off-dry Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett 2022 (£22).
One of many splendid Rhône wines at Yapp Brothers (yapp.co.uk) is the very smart, sensibly priced Offerus Saint-Joseph 2023 by J.L.
Chave (£27.50), while from Languedoc Domaine de Roquemale Les Rocs Blancs 2024 (£18.50) is a fragrant and full-flavoured mix of seven white southern French grape varieties.
Lea & Sandeman (leaandsandeman.co.uk) has a number of ultra-celebratory growers’ champagnes – a perfect introduction is the fine Nicolas Maillart Platine 1er Cru Extra Brut (£44); for a delicate, stylish German alternative to red burgundy choose Weingut Braunewell Pinot Noir 2020 (£19).
At Haynes Hanson & Clark (hhandc.co.uk) try two reds: pretty yet concentrated Tinhof Eisenstadt Blaufränkish 2022 (£24.75) from close to Vienna; and back to southern France and the garrigue-covered hill of Pic Saint Loup, home of Château Lancyre Clos des Combes 2023, layered and perfumed.
From Corney & Barrow (corneyandbarrow.com) Château Tour de l’Evêque blanc (£21.25), championing the rolle (vermentino) grape, will evoke Provencal seaside and sun in darkest winter; or remember the late, great Peter Hall with Breaky Bottom Cuvée Marraine Pooks Brut 2016 (£48), pure, traditional English fizz.
For a classic, elegantly aged claret go to Private Cellar (privatecellar.co.uk) for Château Tayet Cuvée Prestige 2018 (£17); or head completely off piste there with Springfontein Chenel 2022 (£25.85) – the grape is a cross between chenin blanc and ugni blanc, yet to become South Africa’s white equal to pinotage.
Beyond The Bunch there are many more excellent independent wine sellers, and they’re often the source of unusual, enjoyable wines, as with two sauvignon blancs from Italy, one south, one north.
Mandrarossa Urra di Mare (£16.50, vinvm.co.uk) is one of the top wines of the massive, innovative Settisole co-operative, which has done so much to improve the wines of Sicily.
It’s super aromatic, fresh and zesty, a pleasing alternative to the sauvignons of classic regions such as the Loire and New Zealand.
With more than 550 hectares of vines, Ca’ Bolani in Friuli is the largest estate in northern Italy, part of the Zonin family.
Shepherd Foods in Regents Park Road, Primrose Hill, sells both Ca’ Bolani sauvignon blanc and merlot.
The former (£25) recalls the smart Kiwi style, with attractive depth.
Buy now from independents, before stocks reduce with the approach of Christmas.
- Liz Sagues is a committee member and events co-organiser at the Circle of Wine Writers and author of A Celebration of English Wine (Robert Hale, 2018) and Sussex by the Glass (Tanwood Press, 2021).
