Heath Street Bakehouse opens for dinner and cocktails

But we went along to the launch of their new venture; Crust & Cuvee, serving small plates and organic wines and cocktails in the Hampstead bakery after hours.

Running from Thursday to Saturday, it’s a relaxed affair where you can order as little or as much as you like over a glass of wine.

We tried half a dozen small plates including a fantastic focaccia and a basil and ginger sorbet for dessert. (Image: Heath Street Bakehouse) Groups and pairs of younger Hampstead folk were clearly enjoying the veg-forward seasonal dishes and informal setting of whitewashed brick walls, wooden tables, and atmospheric lighting.

We ordered a rose and hibiscus lemonade – mine with gin, my friend’s without – and it was so fruity and refreshing on a sticky warm evening that we were happy with our choice.

Crust & Cuvee is all about sustainability and sharing so we dived into a succession of plates which arrive as they are ready.

The rose and hibiscus lemonade cocktails with gin were refreshing and fruity. (Image: Heath Street Bakehouse) You could just have some Bakehouse sourdough with whipped butter and a charcuterie board, but we decided to be more adventurous and opted for nicely seared scallops topped with salty caviar, and a smoked burrata with toasted walnuts and grilled peach.

The flavours and textures all worked well together, the firm peach slices and drizzle of rocket oil set off the dish, and the smokiness added to what can be a bland cheese.

Next came a showstopper focaccia topped with a punchy blend of Nduja and red pesto whose spicy kick was softened by chili-infused honey.

After tearing into that we tried some of their duck fat potatoes expertly layered and crisped but slightly under seasoned, and served with a dusting of parmesan and chives.

The wines are organic from small producers and reasonably priced. (Image: Heath Street Bakehouse) The cocktails are a real steal at £9 each, and I enjoyed another refreshing one, a Strawberry spritz of elderflower liqueur, sparking wine and Aperol infused but not overwhelmed by strawberry.

It was a fine accompaniment to a meaty seared king oyster mushroom and another highlight, tender braised beef with Jersey royals and cured egg yolk nicely paired with home pickled red cabbage.

Most of the dishes are quite hearty but the sorbet of Thai basil, pineapple and ginger is a true palate cleanser that you will definitely have room for.

The croissant pudding – part of their zero waste ethos – was a little stodgier but we liked the cinnamon and fresh red berry compote.

The Bakehouse is strong on traceability and relationships with artisans who nurture the land with flour sourced from Gloucestershire-based Shipton Mill and wines from small producers like their juicy organic Montepulciano D’Abruzzo and crisp and zippy Alvarinho at £5 a glass.

The staff are all young and enthusiastic, and the whole venture brings a welcome relaxed energy to Hampstead’s dining scene.
 
Reservations are now open for Crust & Cuvée at 78-81 Heath Street available every Thursday-Saturday from 6pm-10pm.