When people hear Croydon, busy high streets, crime, and empty shops often dominate the conversation.
But I decided to hop on a Southern train and head further out to Coulsdon to see what life is like on the edge of “technically London”.
After leaving Clapham Junction behind, the scenery gradually shifted from rooftops and traffic to patches of trees, open fields, and a suburban calm that felt almost Surrey-like.
I arrived at Coulsdon South, a quiet residential station surrounded by detached and semi-detached homes.
(Image: Ezekiel Bertrand)
The streets were wider, the houses spaced further apart than typical London suburbs, and the area had a sense of breathing room.
It was almost unassuming, and was a contrast to the busier corners of Croydon I’ve visited, and I was intrigued to see what else Coulsdon had to offer.
My first stop was a local fish and chip shop: Glade Fisheries on Taunton Lane.
Glade Fisheries is set to close soon and be converted into a house of multiple occupation (HMO), despite objections, and I knew I had to visit before it disappeared.
Before heading in, I decided to ask around what people felt about Glade Fisheries closing.
I spoke to Laura Stokes, a regular, who told me: “It’s really upsetting.
“For ages, this has been our Friday go-to.
“It reminds me of that episode from Derry Girls where the family have to find an alternative for fish and chips and discover pizza just isn’t that good.”
I ordered the cod and chips, though unfortunately, I got there just a little too early for their famed curry sauce.
With no seating inside, I carried my parcel elsewhere and made a small trek to Grange Park.
The park was a decent spot to sit and enjoy my meal: open grass, a few trees, and the occasional jogger and dogwalker passing by.
It was pleasant enough, but I suspected Coulsdon had more surprises up its sleeve.
Following Google Maps, I found a path leading through an incredibly narrow alleyway, past a tiny gate, and suddenly I was on Farthing Downs.
Farthing Downs had me in awe with its rolling hills stretched in every direction, cows in the distance, wildflowers, and outlying houses.
From this vantage point, I could trace the horizon and even spot Purley in the distance.
The downs were vast, wild, and utterly unexpected for a place technically within London
Walking along the paths, breathing in the country-like calm, it was easy to forget I was still within city limits.
The sun wasn’t blazing, which was a relief, given that the hills were surprisingly physical, though, thankfully, they were nowhere near as bad as Highgate.
Returning toward Brighton Road, I decided to check on Coulsdon’s high street.
After covering Croydon town centre’s retail decline for several month, I had to check if Coulsdon had also been hit by the High Street Curse.
While a few places like Pets Galore and Café Oasis had closed permanently, I only counted four empty units along the main stretch.
Cozy Glow Home, a candle shop, was gearing up for Halloween with bath bombs, scented candles, and seasonal decorations.
The high street felt alive, functional, and cared for, very different to the Croydon I had covered.
I ended my day at The Grumpy Goose, a cosy, inviting café tucked just off the main street.
Dog-friendly and welcoming, it was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of walking.
I ordered a fresh-squeezed orange juice and settled in, watching locals come and go, dogs wagging their tails, and families chatting over coffee.
All in all, Coulsdon really opened my eyes and made me see the bigger picture that generalisations about Croydon don’t tell the full story.
Coulsdon is a slice of old Surrey quietly thriving on London’s edge.
It rewards curiosity, with hidden paths, rolling landscapes, and small local treasures that feel like a world apart from the city just a short train ride away.
I would definitely come back, and MAY consider moving here.
This is a part of Croydon that people don’t talk about enough.
