Edinburgh has plenty to offer for the avid traveller, and this year I’ve made it my mission to see more of my proverbial “back garden”, with Scotland’s main city being on my list.
Known for its links to famous writers, its historic 1,100-year-old castle and its many Instagram-worthy streets, this stunning city is a well-worthy candidate for a city break.
But unlike visiting during the hectic months of summer, autumn is really the time when Edinburgh comes into its own, with its scenic Georgian streets and parks brimming with vibrant autumn colour standing out against its many historic buildings.
Getting There
While some of the most popular options may be to take an airplane to Edinburgh Airport or a day train from London due to price, it does have one setback in that you have to account for travel time.
However, I travelled aboard the Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston station, which is essentially a way to combine a hotel stay and a train ride, giving you more time to spend at your destination.
This means that if, like me, you have dwindling annual leave left, you don’t have to use up too much time.
Arriving at London Euston at around 9pm, 90 minutes before departure, we headed to the Caledonian Lounge for complimentary soft drinks, hot drinks and snacks, before it was time to be given our key cards and bed down for the night.
Options range from a £40 seated ticket if you don’t want to splurge, to around £155 for a Classic Room with a shared bathroom, and £345 for a Club Twin like ours with its own shower.
Once on board, we filled in our breakfast request list and hung it on the door to be collected, with the option to either eat it in the room or in the bar car (if space is available).
Do be quick if you want to eat in the car, as space is quite limited.
You can also dine in the bar car, which has a selection of Scottish-inspired dishes like mac and cheese and haggis if you still feel hungry.
The train pulled out of London at around 11:30 pm, and we retired to get some rest before arriving in Edinburgh at around 7:30 am the next morning.
As for how much I slept, while it may not be the most restful sleep by virtue of being on a moving train, lying in the direction of travel helped, and I did manage to get some rest before arriving in the city early in the morning — ideal for exploring before it got too busy.
Where We Stayed
For our accommodation, we stayed in one of the beautiful and cosy apartments owned and managed by The Rutland Hotel, located on Rutland Street.
With views of Edinburgh Castle and just off Princes Street, with access to the airport by tram, this place is ideal if you want to be within easy reach of Edinburgh’s popular shopping districts like Victoria Street and the Royal Mile, which are within a 15-minute walk.
Our apartment, a family suite consisting of two bedrooms, a sitting room, a kitchen and an outdoor garden, had plenty of room and was fitted with all the conveniences such as a smart TV, heated towel rail and a backlit mirror with a vanity area.
Despite being so close to Princes Street and all the hubbub of the city, these basement flats were quiet and felt private, with a taxi rank just outside.
The Rutland is also part of The Huxley Hotel and Kyloe Restaurant, where you can dine for breakfast and dinner, with a 20 percent discount for guests who don’t opt for breakfast to be included in the package.
Things to Do
One of Edinburgh’s key attractions is Edinburgh Castle, a 1,100-year-old castle that has famously been knocked down and rebuilt many times over the years.
Sitting on Edinburgh’s long extinct volcano, Edinburgh Castle offers some of the best views in the city and has a fascinating history as a royal residence, war prison and army barracks.
It’s also rumoured to be haunted, with the ghost of a drummer boy said to appear to herald the commencement of war.
It’s also the place where you can see Scotland’s Crown Jewels, including the famous crown that Mary, Queen of Scots, wore at her coronation.
Talking of Mary, Queen of Scots, at the opposite end of the Royal Mile — a mile-long road running between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood House — you’ll be able to learn more about her and her life.
Famously built on the site of a former 12th century abbey, Holyrood House has served as a royal residence since 1498 and is still used by the Royal Family to this day.
Here you can see the remains of the 16th century chambers of Mary, Queen of Scots, including the notorious place where her secretary, David Rizzio, was stabbed in a fit of jealousy by Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley.
The Royal Mile itself is also worth a visit and is where you’ll find many interesting side streets, as well as St Giles Cathedral in the middle, and plenty of shops ranging from high-quality wool and tartan to Christmas and stationery shops.
But if you’re looking for other places to shop, the Old Town is not to be missed, with streets like Cockburn Street and Victoria Street being home to specialist and quaint shops perfect for gifts.
One thing Edinburgh offers is a mix of scenic walks, from sweeping views atop Arthur’s Seat to charming historic streets like Circus Lane and Dean Village.
Just a 30-minute tram ride from Edinburgh you can visit the Port of Leith, home to attractions like the Royal Yacht Britannia — the former 1950s yacht that transported the Royal Family — and Port of Leith Distillery, which is famously the UK’s first vertical distillery.
Where to Eat
Edinburgh is a vibrant city when it comes to its food scene, from charming cafes and tea rooms to international cuisine and traditional Scottish fare if you want to sample some haggis.
Some of my personal favourite spots for dinner were Kyloe, a steakhouse with a focus on Scottish beef and premium cuts, along with Badger and Co, a quirky restaurant on Castle Street themed around The Wind in the Willows and situated within Kenneth Grahame’s former home.
During our time in the city, we also tried afternoon tea in Edinburgh Castle’s tea room and onboard The Fingal, a 20th century former lighthouse tender that was recently named one of the UK’s “most quirky” hotels by The Telegraph.
When it came to breakfast, The Huxley, a few doors down from The Rutland, was a highlight, with a broad range of Scottish-inspired dishes along with options like French toast and eggs Benedict, and breakfast cocktails if you fancy a drink.
With its mix of stunning architecture, local history and charm, and its walkability, Edinburgh is well worth a visit this autumn or winter to see some of what Scotland has to offer.
