Tanzi Ellison and Jean-Francois Pioc are the Anglo-French couple behind Kentish Town neighbourhood gem Patron – and it’s “petite soeur” French Society in West Hampstead.
Back in 2015 they were running central London bistro Cafe Gourmand after meeting at chef school – and spotted the thriving French community in NW5.
The warm and intimate atmosphere, the authenticity and local nature of Patron make it a valued gem.(Image: Patron)
“We realised it was a very French area with a French school and a strong sense of community and energy and wanted to move from central London to do something for the locals,” says Jean.
“Rather than open yet another trendy East London restaurant, we both have a love of French food and travel and a passion for cooking and saw Fortess Road as somewhere to grow.
“We were lucky to get it at the right moment in the right place between Tufnell Park, and Kentish Town, not far from Hampstead Heath.”
Patron was modelled on a Parisian ‘Cave a Manger,’ an intimate, low-lit wine bar serving casual bistro-style plates.
With its etched glass window and candlelit tables, it opened small – just a bar, back kitchen and handful of covers serving French classics.
“We wanted to open a slice of Paris in Kentish Town, the kind of place we like to go, serving what we love – it was more a passion project than a business” says Tanzi.
But soon came Brexit, hitting staff, clientele and suppliers, then Covid, during which they pivoted to deliveries.
Post pandemic, they shifted again, expanding into the shop next door, opening a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge, garden and terrace, then a second site in Mill Lane.
Tanzi says they’ve evolved from being a wine bar serving small plates to a traditional bistro, but Jean says the watchwords have been to stay local, authentic, and satisfy people’s “craving for warmth and comfort”.
With a hearty menu of duck confit, boeuf bourguignon, snails in garlic butter, and onion soup, their loyal regulars complain if they take favourite items off the short menu.
I know how they feel – on our recent visit although there are new dishes, we found ourselves ordering old faves; the pungent Saint Germain cocktail with its sprinkle of spice, a pillowy double baked cheese souffle, a perfectly cooked onglet steak topped with a melting slab of herb-infused butter, and a beautifully soft boeuf bourguignon – this time on the bone – accompanied by layered fat-crisped potatoes cut into brick-like chips.
We finished naturally with grand-mère’s rich chocolate mousse dolloped on your plate from the bowl.
“Covid, Brexit were challenging, I’m not going to lie, it’s been a struggle over the 10 years,” says Tanzi, “but it’s been so wonderful to see the support we’ve had from the community and our loyal customers throughout the tough times.”
Being independent and small meant they could react quickly.
“We’ve definitely evolved, we’ve tried to stay fresh yet keep to our roots.”
Jean chips in: “The spirit is the same – the service, the ambience. For us the basis of any restaurant is a French soul, the wine and the good vibes.
“Hospitality is not just about the food and being fed, but the experience of going out and having a good time.
“It’s as if time stands still when you walk through those doors, long nights of good food and chat, we’re creating memories.”
Their latest pivot is to rebrand as a French Firehouse – emphasising the charcoal Josper grill that adds flavour to their simple but impeccably executed dishes.
“I can’t believe it’s 10 years. It’s surreal,” says Tanzi, who is now living with Jean in rural South West France with their three young children.
They are taking inspiration from local cuisine, so expect to see influences from Armagnac popping onto Patron’s menu.
“Looking back we have matured with our business,” she adds.
“If we had known how hard it was going to be at the beginning we would probably have run a mile, but now we wouldn’t change a thing!”
French Society is at 77, Mill Lane, West Hampstead and Patron is at 26, Fortess Road, Kentish Town. www.patronrestaurant.com
