Located within the scenic Champagne region of France, Troyes is a striking town often described as one of France’s most beautiful towns to visit, alongside the likes of Annecy and Menthon.
If there was ever a town that felt like it had been plucked out of a Disney set, Troyes in France would be a well-worthy candidate on that list.
If there was ever a town that felt like it had been plucked out of a Disney set, Troyes in France would be a well-worthy candidate on that list. (Image: Emily Davison) Troyes, featuring eight churches – from the grand Troyes Cathedral to the historic Basilica of Saint-Urbain – is renowned for housing 40 percent of Europe’s stained glass.
Following a half-day drive to the town, after arriving in Calais via the LeShuttle Tunnel, we arrived in the town, its borders by mere coincidence shaped on the map like a Champagne cork, and the city grew from humble beginnings in the Roman era.
Surprisingly, this town has remained rather untouched and unravaged by time, with many of its 16th century timber framed houses remaining, which were rebuilt during this period after a fire destroyed the original medieval lookalikes in 1524.
The town’s current mayor – François Baroin – is passionate about leaving the town unspoiled and preserving its rich history.
The town offers a mix of things to see and do, with a vibrant nightlife scene on account of its university, as well as its many cultural aspects like its museums and cathedrals.
Where to stay
We stayed at one of Troyes’ oldest hotel establishments – Le Champ des Oiseaux Hôtel & Spa.
Located in the heart of Troyes, a stone’s throw from Troyes Cathedral, this beautifully restored boutique hotel is housed within a former Knights House dating back to the 16th century and sits alongside the older La Maison de Rhodes dating back to 1326.
Brimming with character and provincial charm, this timber-framed listed building has plenty of nooks and crannies to explore, and features a small pool area, Swedish sauna and whirlpool bath.
The rooms, decorated individually, still have many of their original features, including their timber frameworks and wooden shutters, and have been decorated in keeping with the heritage of the hotel, with Salernes tiles, stone floors and rich textiles.
Stepping inside the hotel, it’s easy to imagine this place serving as a backdrop for a painting, with its turret, gated garden and secluded courtyards.
Breakfast is served in the hotel’s common room, featuring its charming flagstone walls and antique objects, where you’ll be served a traditional French La Petite Dejuener consisting of croissants, breads, preserves, fruit and yoghurt, along with the option to order cooked options like eggs and bacon.
Meanwhile dinner, with a menu created using seasonal produce, is served within the hotel courtyard during the summer months, with a menu that champions local produce and regional wines.
Things to do
Troyes is brimming with history, and perhaps one of the best ways to explore the city is to get out on foot and walk through its many historic streets and timbered houses.
Whilst a lot of Troyes’ original 14th century houses were burned down following a fire, some examples of its medieval architecture still remain, like the La Maison du Dauphin (“Dauphin’s House”), a half-timbered building dating back to 1472 which you’ll find on the corner of Rue Kléber and Rue Célestin-Philbois,
One of the most famous significant streets in Troyes is the Ruelle des Chats, otherwise known by locals as “Cats’ Alley.”
This medieval alley, known as Rue Maillard in the 15th century, was designed to protect residents from filth, with elevated walkways for the more privileged, and is often used by local cats to jump from one house to another on account of how narrow it is.
Troyes is home to eight churches, and the reason why there are so many is still rather an anomaly, with its oldest being the Basilica of Saint-Urbain (Basilique Saint-Urbain de Troyes), whose foundations date back to 1262 and took over 400 years to build.
Due to its many churches, the town is full of interesting examples of stained glass, with Troyes holding the title of having 40 per cent of Europe’s stained glass.
If you’re interested to know more about this craft dating back hundreds of years, you can find a museum entirely dedicated to stained glass – Cité du Vitrail.
Housed in the historic Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte, this museum celebrates Troyes’ long legacy in stained glass production, with an array of interactive exhibits and displays, as well as a chapel dedicated to the many talented craftspeople who were responsible for creating stained glass throughout the centuries.
But if you’re interested in fine art, the Musée d’Art Moderne de Troyes, housed within Troyes’ 16th-century episcopal palace (Hôtel de Vauluisant), features a collection of modern art pieces from statues to paintings, from names like Courbet, Rodin, Matisse, Soutine and Buffet.
Other places to explore
Being situated within the north east region of Champagne, Troyes is well placed for anyone looking to take a Champagne tour, with the end of August being at the height of harvesting season for the industry.
We visited Champagne Chassenay d’Arce, founded by five pioneers in 1956 in Ville-sur-Arce this Champagne house is home to over 315 hectares of vineyards, and grows three varieties of grapes including Pinot Noir and Pinot Blan, and supplies to the likes of Searcys with their restaurants and bars here in the UK.
Its portfolio is organised into ranges such as Les Essentielles, Les Authentiques (including the organic Cuvée Origine), Les Caractères, and Les Confidentielles (prestige vintages like Confidences 2012).
Visitors can go on guided or self-guided tours through historic cellars, enjoy tastings of three champagnes, vineyard picnics, or indulge in gourmet dining experiences in the Saint Vincent cellar, with prices starting from 42 euros per person.
Another popular day trip just 40 minutes from Troyes is to visit the scenic village of Essoyes, famously known as the home of renowned painter Pierre-Auguste Renoir.
To this day you can still visit his home and see where the painter lived and worked during the years he was alive, with a ticket to visit his house costing 10 euros.
If you fancy seasonally changing and local produce, L’Union is a quintessentially French bistro with a blackboard menu and a small selection of regional wines which changes on a regular basis, with the menu dictated by the season.
Whether you fancy exploring its history or making Troyes your base to explore the iconic region of Champagne, the city has certainly captured my imagination and is well worth a visit for its old-world charm that still feels untouched by time.
