My ideal roast is washed down with half a Guinness in a traditional neighbourhood pub – rather than a fancy gastro experience.
The Priory Tavern, just off Kilburn High Road fits the bill nicely and was even a former haunt of that great pub-loving author George Orwell.
Chef and co-landlord Glyn Bell, has an impeccable track record in dishing up the great British pub classic.
When based at The Castle in Walthamstow, punters would queue out of the door for their weekend fix of super crisp roasties and Yorkshire puddings as big as hats.
When he moved to the Belsize Road boozer two years ago, he told the Ham&High: “It doesn’t need to be massively complicated, just good quality ingredients and a bit of love and passion. Everything is made from scratch and we are trying to keep prices down.”
Glyn’s legendary gravy gets started on a Wednesday so by the time it arrives at your table it’s deep, rich – and mercifully plentiful.
When we tipped up as a family of four last Sunday they had not only had a problem with a faulty freezer, but a run of punters meant their roasts were almost sold out.
We managed to bag the last two sirloin beef portions – while my partner was happy to tuck into fish and chips, and my teen ordered their signature burger.
Over at the next table we spotted where the last portions of chicken had flown to – a table of six were tucking into generous servings of half a juicy Norfolk Black each, and looked annoyingly happy about it.
There’s also usually a pork belly with apple sauce, but all come with that incredible Yorkshire, buttered carrots, cabbage, crisp parsnips, and roasties well basted with beef fat, garlic and rosemary – resulting in a satisfying crunchy exterior and fluffy insides.
The sirloin was beautifully cooked tender and pink, and enlivened with a horseradish crème fraiche, and that gravy, simmered for 12 hours with roasted bones and herbs, then reduced for another eight with port, red wine and brandy.
My partner’s super crisp fish fillets were served, as they should be, with homemade tartare, and got the thumbs up.
And the hard-to-please teen approved of her chunky chuck steak burger with tangy cheddar, tomato and onion jam, and a fine dish of triple cooked chips.
It all smacked of care and attention to detail that means none of the parts let the whole down.
We’d also snagged a couple of portions of Treacle tart, served with pouring cream, the crumby-sweet topping on crisp pastry was comfort food on a plate, while an intriguing boozy take on Eton mess pitched Black Forest gateau and chocolate chips into the merengue mix.
Rising costs mean its hard for pubs to keep their prices down but with fish and chips coming in at £17.50 and roasts ranging from £19 for vegetarian, £22 for the chicken and £25 for our sirloin, this is still great value for such quality and home from home cooking.
The Priory Tavern is at 250 Belsize Road, NW6 and Sunday lunch is served from 1pm to 7pm. www.priorytavern.co.uk
