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What’s the buzz? On the bank of the Cuckmere river and the edge of a historic South Downs village, what was for decades the Dean’s Place Hotel has been relaunched this spring as the Alfriston. The fourth opening in the Signet Collection’s group of “reimagined” historical properties — others include the Mitre at Hampton Court and the Barnsdale at Rutland — the Alfriston was originally a merchant’s manor house. The current building dates back at least to the 17th century and it first became a hotel in the 1930s.
Signet, run by husband-and-wife team Hector and Samantha Ross, acquired it in January 2024 and spent a year refurbishing the pretty brick-and-flint property, adding much-needed updates, three more rooms and a spa.
Location, location, location Just a few miles from the chalk cliffs of the Seven Sisters, the village after which the hotel is named clusters around a 14th-century church.
Recent years have seen it become increasingly chichi, in part thanks to the growing popularity of the South Downs Way, which runs right through, and Charleston, the nearby farmhouse that was effectively the Bloomsbury Group’s country retreat. Olga and Alex Polizzi’s 2021 takeover of the Star, a historic inn on the high street — as well as the accompanying TV show — added a bit of stardust. Today the street offers browsing opportunities from a quirky bookshop called Much Ado (where the owner hands lavender shortbread to shoppers) to a florist-cum-art gallery and a well-stocked village store. It’s slightly spoilt by a steady stream of traffic vying for space on the narrow road — a far cry from when it was a base for smuggling.
Checking in On my Easter weekend visit, just three weeks after launch, The Alfriston’s smart grey frontage was framed perfectly by a just-flowering purple wisteria neatly pinned around the front porch. There are two parts to this hotel, the older section and a 1960s add-on at the rear — more on which later. But designer Georgie Wykeham’s clever use of light paints and furnishings to complement the period features, dark beams and floorboards became immediately apparent as I stepped into the reception room.
There are 14 rooms in the old part of the building, 17 in the new, and seven more — including family and twin rooms — in a former stable block from the 19th century. Rich in warm colours, bold prints and textiles from the likes of Colefax and Fowler, Linwood, Farrow & Ball, no lampshade is left unruched. However, for all the attention taken on the “Bloomsbury group-inspired” furnishings, none was apparently paid to sound insulation during the refurb and after my first night in the 1960s section of the hotel — albeit with beautiful views of the South Downs — I asked to be moved. Happily installed in a quiet corner suite in the older building, with views of the croquet lawn and patio, I slept more restfully.
There is no lounge, per se, but the bar doubles as a relaxed seating area — the vibe is very laid back, friendly staff a curious mixture of attentive and forgetful but trying really hard.
What about the food? The same menu operates here as in Signet Collection’s other properties — with local variations, so more seafood at Alfriston. Over the two nights of my stay, I tasted the group’s signature snack — cauliflower popcorn — with a cocktail in the bar, followed by starters of roast beetroot and soft shell-crab with chilli and tomato jam, then seared scallops and mussels in cider and bacon (the mains are reasonably priced, between £16 and £32). All were well cooked — as was the Mediterranean whole sea bass on the bone for two, which was let down by being plonked on the table in a deep-sided dish with only a too-large metal serving spoon. The restaurant was busy that night, so I didn’t want to interrupt the staff to demand a fish slice.
Breakfast in the orangery is a buffet affair with more hit-and-miss service; Saturday’s staff kept dishes brimming with plump sausages, juicy field mushrooms and bowls of smashed avocado, but on Sunday the staff took greater care arranging napkins than they did topping up plates.
What to do? There are no plans to install a gym at the hotel because the countryside on the doorstep offers so much opportunity to get active. I spent two good hours hiking up and down the Downs to reach Cuckmere Haven, then approached the famous Seven Sisters view via Seaford the following day. There is also paddleboarding and kayaking both at the beach and on the river, as well as cycling and wine tasting at the nearby Rathfinny vineyard. Other places not to miss include the timber-and-thatch 14th-century Alfriston Clergy House and garden — the first property owned by the National Trust — and Charleston itself, the former home of Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, frequently visited by Virginia and Leonard Woolf, EM Forster, Lytton Strachey and many others.
Other guests? A mix of families, thirty to fiftysomething couples and older groups enjoying get-togethers. All very relaxed, no heels required.
The damage: Despite needing to forage for breakfast, doubles from £150 are a bargain.
Abigail Butcher was a guest of The Alfriston (thealfriston.com)
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