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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to London
My mother was an incredible home cook, known for single-handedly executing 25-course Chinese banquets for family festivities, instilling in me a love of food. She gave me the gift of a discerning palate from an early age, which has been key for what became my adulthood obsession: wine.
When I first moved to London from Sydney nearly 30 years ago, I threw myself into experiencing the capital’s thrilling restaurant scene. Wine was yet to register. I soon met Matt Wilkin, an Australian sommelier at a Michelin-starred restaurant, who made me laugh from the first glass of Ruinart champagne and made wine approachable and fun through storytelling.
With a new friendship forged, Wilkin, it turned out, was a rare Master Sommelier, who went on to import wines. At his tastings, I graduated from sniffing samples and saying, “I smell wine,” to working out what I liked. His job was to sell and he cleverly opened my wallet by increasing my confidence and knowledge. I slid down the wine-geekery rabbit hole, eventually becoming a collector, the founder of an organisation for women working in the wine industry and a judge of the UK’s best wine lists, many of which are here in London, tucked on the tables of our world-leading restaurant scene.
London is home to some of the most distinctive lists anywhere in the world, developed by passionate, skilled curators who love to share their own particular interests, whether that’s regional, natural wine or impressive multi-vintage listings of the same wine (verticals). Here I’ve shared some of my favourite lists across the capital, focusing on those that best entice exploration and engagement with wine. Some can inspire even a novice to dive in, driving intrigue rather than dread, while others are aimed at serious aficionados. All go hand in hand with excellent food and create moments of conviviality, like my own that hooked me into wine for life.
The most creative: Plates
320 Old Street, London EC1V 9DR
A visual delight greets the eyes on opening the wine list at Plates, the one-Michelin-star plant-forward restaurant in Shoreditch. It is a vibrant, colourful map, immediately piquing curiosity and echoing the ethos of the restaurant. Chef Kirk Haworth’s ingenious seasonal plant-based food is centred on sustainability and wine director Alex Price has done the same with the list — both are dedicated to the welfare of the people working either in the restaurant or the vineyards. Price has categorised the wine list by biomes, each with descriptions of the climate and flora, with the emphasis on the intricate relationship between wine and the local ecosystem, rather than on geographic borders alone. There is a reinforced sense of nature with the producers championing regenerative farming, acting as custodians of the land for the future, such as Antoine Sanzay, a sixth-generation viticulturist, whose wonderfully perfumed Cabernet Franc (£110) is a highlight on the menu. Website; Directions
The best classic list: Core by Clare Smyth
92 Kensington Park Road, London W11 2PN
Everyone knows chef Clare Smyth for her strikingly beautiful and skilful dishes, but the beverage director at the three-Michelin-starred Core, Gareth Ferreira, is a star in his own right — a Master Sommelier at the top of his game. His wine list holds a whopping 1,140 wines, though feels less daunting than its size due to the well-crafted, warm construction. It feels personal. Full of familiar classics — think big-name Burgundies, Bordeaux and Super Tuscans — it also has wines to encourage exploration, listing innovative producers and exciting new wine territories. Ferreira has written elegant narratives in his friendly South African tone, organised by country and region, drawing you in to keep turning the pages. With accompanying clear maps, it feels like he never leaves your side as you peruse. A favourite choice of mine means bringing more South African charm to the table: order Eben Sadie’s Palladius (£220). Like Core itself, it’s pure class. Website; Directions
A great pub list: The Drapers Arms
44 Barnsbury Street, London N1 1ER
Pubs have historically not focused on wine, though thankfully that is increasingly changing, and London is home to dozens of excellent gastropubs with appealing bottles. The Drapers Arms is certainly one of those pubs — a long-standing authentic neighbourhood favourite run by wine lover Nick Gibson, who simply wants guests to eat and drink better. Keen prices with intuitive, straightforward list categories (such as “Burgundy and Chardonnay” and “Loire, Chenin and Sauvignon”) give astounding results when positioned in a pub. People tend to upgrade to better-quality wines or might choose something they have not tried before (for me, this includes Tenerife producer Suertes del Marqués’ Trenzado, £74). Even real connoisseurs are spoilt for choice on this six-page list, with top wines such as Dagueneau Silex 2020 (£240) and the 2016 Jamet Côte-Rôtie (£225) — perfect for sharing with the slow-cooked lamb shoulder. I love going for the Sunday roast, assured that an excellent wine will help make the meal. Website; Directions
Like going on holiday: Oma
2–4 Bedale Street, London SE1 9AL
The clever wine list at Oma, the Michelin-starred Greek- and Levant-inspired restaurant in Borough Market, challenges the geographic perspective we are used to seeing and instead transports guests to destinations around Greece, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. You can choose to taste the salinity and sandy soils of coastline beaches, travel to the windy and sun-kissed volcanic islands or go further inland to mountains and green rolling hills. This award-winning list has been passionately curated to create a food and wine escape — a favourite is the Estate Argyros Assyrtiko (£95), a refreshing head-dive into the salty waters around Santorini, a nice accompaniment to crudo dishes with tingling dressings and the labneh with salt cod and XO sauce. If you can’t holiday in the Med this year, Oma might just do the trick. Website; Directions
A top Italian job: Doppo
33 Dean Street, London W1D 4PW
Doppo doesn’t even have a website, yet it has become a firm favourite of wine lovers in the know. Lean back in the heart of buzzy Soho and order something from its healthy by-the-glass selection (including fine wines), while browsing the 700-strong list presented by region and colour. A labour of love of co-owner Tom Cordiner, it is uniquely presented as a magazine, and almost feels like flicking through Tatler at home. Dishes are Tuscan-influenced, created by a kitchen team with experience from multiple Michelin establishments, and the jovial service of sommeliers Giuseppe Zen and Thomas Davies lets the list speak for itself, though they whip out their knowledge when needed. The champagne offering is extensive, ranging from small-scale growers to grand marques, and the award-winning Italian section lets you either explore the myriad of indigenous grape varieties or hit some big names such as Valentini, Sassicaia and Il Marroneto. The Library Selection of older vintages is also a highlight, giving the less wine-savvy a chance to try an old bottle with their table and explore the beauty of how wine ages; 1982 has fun selections from Château Margaux (£1,180), Te Mata in New Zealand (£250) and even celebrity favourite Tignanello (£450). Doppo also prides itself on offering good value in central London, with plenty of options available for less than £50 a bottle. Instagram; Directions
Queena Wong is a wine collector, the founder of Curious Vines and UK judge for Star Wine List
Who in your opinion does London’s best wine list? Share your tips in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter for the latest stories first
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