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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to London
Soho has long been my favourite neighbourhood in London. It has a vibrancy and energy that only exists in a few places on the planet. The Village in Manhattan, Shibuya in Tokyo and the Marais in Paris each have a similar pulse.
My relationship with Soho began when I first worked there. I opened Bar Termini around 10 years ago. Spending time there daily you realise that the colour and the fabric of the area is so intertwined with the people and the history — and so much of it surrounds food and drink. These locales constantly evolve and grow. People complain of change, that Soho has become overly sanitised, but to capture an area at a certain point and maintain it would be impossible. You would end up with a theme park.
My days in Soho always start early. Before 9am is the only real time of calm. I buy a coffee at Omotesando, a Japanese coffee roaster that has sites all over the world, then wander through the streets, stopping for some breakfast noodles at Koya. Its udon are probably the best in London, and the broth is filling and warming. There’s often a queue at the door for the all-counter seating, but it moves quickly. Inside, space is tight, elbows brushing with your neighbour.
Normally, I head straight to the bar after this, but if I have time I’ll jump to a gallery quickly. The Photographers’ Gallery often has great exhibitions; its Shot in Soho show offered us plenty of inspiration and guidance for the photography we display in our venue, which is all taken in local bars and clubs over the years.
For lunch, I’m finding it hard to avoid Mountain, the latest restaurant from Tomos Parry, the chef behind Michelin-starred Brat in east London. Mountain is stunning, all natural woods and open space, with a kitchen that resembles a forge at the back of the room. Make sure you request a table upstairs to watch the world go by through the large windows. I’ll usually order oysters, the raw sobrasada with honey and then some of the smaller plates to share, washed down with a glass or two of white wine from the Balearics. The wine list is really well put together.
There’s a couple of good shops on the walk back over to the bar, including Oliver Spencer, a British menswear brand that focuses on relaxed classic styles utilising high-quality fabrics; then you have Kitchen Provisions around the corner. It stocks an impressive selection of knives from all over the world.
I’m always back at the Three Sheets between 4pm and 7pm, which is often when friends or people who work in hospitality roll through and there’s a great energy in the room. I’ll probably be drinking a Dirty Martini, or maybe a glass of Billecart-Salmon rosé. Afterwards, I’ll nip out for a pint at The Coach & Horses on Greek Street. It’s a Soho institution, with a great team and a wonderful landlady, Alison Ross.
For dinner, you’re really spoilt for choice. A favourite is The 10 Cases, a French bistro that buys just 10 cases of wine at a time. This means the wine list is ever-changing and always exceptional — plus the steak-frites is as good as you’ll get in London. For something a little more old school, I’ll go to Andrew Edmunds, which feels like it’s been locked in a time capsule in the best possible way. It holds on to a real neighbourhood restaurant vibe. The menu is classic European bistro, pricing is relatively approachable and, again, the wine list is superb.
For a drink after dinner, I might venture (not too far) away from Soho, because Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood is exceptional. It’s possibly the nicest room in London to have a drink — for me, either a martini or a glass of champagne — and the service is great. Andrew Loudon, who has worked at London bars such as Satan’s Whiskers and 69 Colebrooke Row before spending a few years in Singapore at Tippling Club, has recently taken over the reins there, so I’m looking forward to seeing what he does with the drinks offering. Though, if you’re after a more energetic night, Soho it is. Head to Gerry’s Club, which always has live music and an eclectic crowd. It’s a real taste of the area.
Max Venning co-owns London bars Three Sheets, in Soho and Dalston, and Little Mercies in Crouch End
What are your favourite Soho hangouts? Tell us in the comments below. And follow @FTGlobetrotter on Instagram
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